Quick answer: For Raypak R185A, R265A, R335A, and R405A Digital heaters, the Raypak 006730F Complete Inlet/Outlet Header (ASME cast iron) is the correct OEM replacement. Pentair and Sta-Rite MasterTemp/Max-E-Therm 250NA and 250LP models use the Pentair 460748 Water System Manifold Kit. Hayward Universal H-Series Low NOx heaters (H150FD through H400FD) take the Hayward FDXLFHA1930 Header Assembly, and Jandy/Zodiac JXi and LXi heaters use the Zodiac R0589500 Manifold Gasket Seal Kit. All four route water into and out of the heat exchanger and are among the pricier OEM parts on a heater — $79 to over $600 depending on brand — because a full casting or gasket-sealed assembly costs more to manufacture than an electrical switch or sensor. Prices below were re-checked against current retailer listings as of September 2026.
A manifold or header failure is almost always freeze damage: trapped water expands roughly 9% as it freezes, and the manifold is one of the first castings to crack under that pressure if a heater wasn’t properly winterized or a freeze-protection cycle didn’t kick in in time. It’s also explicitly excluded from warranty coverage on both Raypak’s and Pentair’s own installation manuals, which list freeze damage as an owner-responsibility exclusion rather than a covered defect — a real reason to take our freeze protection guide seriously rather than assuming the manufacturer has you covered. Because Raypak, Pentair, Hayward, and Jandy each use a different casting, material, and mounting pattern, ordering the wrong one for your model is the most common mistake here.
Pool heater manifolds & headers at a glance
| Manifold / header | Fits | Material | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Raypak 006730F | R185A, R265A, R335A, R405A | Cast iron, ASME | $414-$479 |
| Pentair/Sta-Rite 460748 | MasterTemp/Max-E-Therm 250NA, 250LP | Cast manifold kit | $470-$530 |
| Hayward FDXLFHA1930 | Universal H-Series Low NOx H150FD-H400FD | Header assembly, gaskets included | $258-$350 |
| Zodiac/Jandy R0589500 | JXi and LXi gas heaters | Manifold gasket seal kit | $79-$111 |
1. Raypak 006730F — For R185A, R265A, R335A & R405A
Raypak 006730F Complete Inlet/Outlet Header, ASME Cast Iron
- The full cast-iron inlet/outlet header for Raypak's metal heat exchanger models, including both flanges and the 1.5" and 2" flange gaskets needed to reseal it against the exchanger.
- Raypak also sells a lighter-duty polymer version (006827F) for the same model range, but that part has been discontinued and superseded by 017959F — if you're pricing an old listing for 006827F, confirm it hasn't been pulled from the manufacturer's current parts catalog before ordering.
- Same RP2100/Digital-series header family referenced in our [conversion kit guide](/best/best-pool-heater-conversion-kit/) — if a technician is already resetting manifold pressure after a fuel conversion, that's a natural time to inspect the header gaskets too.
- Installation requires draining the heater, isolating the water lines, and torquing the flange bolts evenly to avoid a gasket leak — not a bolt-on swap like an igniter or pressure switch.
If your Raypak heater is weeping water from the casting itself rather than a fitting or hose — especially after a cold snap — the header is the part to inspect before assuming the heat exchanger has failed.
2. Pentair/Sta-Rite 460748 — For MasterTemp & Max-E-Therm 250
Pentair 460748 MasterTemp/Max-E-Therm Water System Manifold Kit
- Pentair's OEM manifold kit specifically for the 250,000 BTU MasterTemp and Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm models — Pentair sells separate kits for the 175/200 and 400 sizes under different part numbers, so confirm the BTU rating on your heater's rating plate first.
- One of the more expensive single parts on this site's parts pages, since it's a full water-system casting rather than a bolt-on sensor — at $470-$530, it's still roughly 10-15% of what a new MasterTemp costs installed, per our [Raypak brand pricing](/best/best-raypak-pool-heater/) research on comparable gas-heater installed costs.
- Includes the manifold body plus the gaskets needed to reseal it against the heat exchanger's tube sheet.
- A cracked manifold on a MasterTemp typically shows as active water leaking from the front of the heater cabinet, distinct from the "Service" fault light that flags a failed [pressure switch](/best/best-pool-heater-pressure-switch/).
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3. Hayward FDXLFHA1930 — For Universal H-Series Low NOx
Hayward FDXLFHA1930 Header Assembly
- Covers the full Universal H-Series Low NOx size range — H150 through H400, in both natural gas (FDN) and propane (FDP) versions, the same "FD" designation used by the [igniter](/best/best-pool-heater-igniter/) and [pressure switch](/best/best-pool-heater-pressure-switch/) parts for this line.
- The least expensive of the four full manifold/header assemblies here, though it's still a technician-grade job — the gaskets need even torque against the tube sheet to seal properly.
- Ships as a complete front header with gaskets included, so there's no separate gasket kit to source alongside it.
- Hayward's older non-Low-NOx H-Series and HeatPro models use different header part numbers, so match the "FD" designation on your model plate before ordering.
4. Zodiac/Jandy R0589500 — For JXi & LXi Heaters
Zodiac/Jandy R0589500 Manifold Gasket Seal Kit
- Unlike the full castings above, this is a gasket seal kit rather than a replacement manifold body — Jandy's JXi/LXi design means a weeping manifold seam is more often a failed gasket than a cracked casting, which is why the fix here costs a fraction of the Raypak, Pentair, or Hayward parts.
- Covers the manifold-to-heat-exchanger seal on both the JXi (standard) and LXi (Low NOx) lines within the same generation.
- Still not a casual DIY swap — the manifold backplate has to come off cleanly and go back on with even torque, or the new gasket will weep in the same spot the old one did.
- A companion part worth checking on the same JXi/LXi teardown: the [igniter](/best/best-pool-heater-igniter/), which our parts research notes wears on a similar multi-year timeline from the same heat-cycling stress.
How to confirm it’s the manifold before you buy
A manifold or header failure is a water-leak problem, not a lockout-code problem in most cases — look for visible weeping or dripping directly from the casting or the seam where it bolts to the heat exchanger, especially right after a hard freeze. If instead you’re getting a flow-related fault code with no visible leak anywhere, that’s almost always the pressure switch, which fails far more often and costs a fraction as much to replace. Always match the exact part number to your heater’s model and BTU size from the rating plate, not just the brand name — Raypak, Pentair, and Hayward each sell multiple manifold or header variants across a single product family, and Raypak in particular has discontinued and superseded at least one older part number (006827F to 017959F) within this same guide.
The bottom line
A manifold or header is one of the pricier single parts on a pool heater — the Raypak 006730F, Pentair 460748, and Hayward FDXLFHA1930 run $258-$530, while the Zodiac/Jandy R0589500 gasket kit covers the same failure mode for $79-$111 on JXi/LXi heaters. It’s also one of the few repairs on this site we don’t call DIY-friendly, since resealing it against the heat exchanger takes the same careful, even-torque technique as a full heat exchanger swap. If a cracked manifold is one of several freeze-related failures on an older heater, our repair cost guide and its 50% rule can help you decide whether it’s still worth fixing versus replacing the whole unit.
Sources: PoolWeb — Raypak 006730F Inlet/Outlet Header, Pool Supply Unlimited — Pentair 460748 MasterTemp Manifold Assembly, PoolSupply4Less — Hayward FDXLFHA1930 Header Assembly, GetPoolParts — Zodiac R0589500 Manifold Gasket Seal Kit