Quick answer
Only two of the five brands this site tracks sell an actual replaceable sacrificial anode: Raypak’s ProTek Shield (part 017960F, about $45-$80) comes standard on AVIA and AVIA HD w/ NiTek gas heaters, and Jandy’s zinc anode kit (part R0965100, about $85-$120) is an optional add-on for standard-copper JXi/JXiQ models only — Jandy’s own listing says it won’t work on the cupro-nickel ASME version. Pentair, Hayward, and AquaCal skip the anode approach entirely: their heat pumps use titanium exchangers standard, and Pentair’s HD gas option uses cupro-nickel, so the exchanger metal itself is the corrosion fix rather than a sacrificial part you replace.
A sacrificial anode works by being a more electrochemically active metal than the part it’s protecting, so stray current and corrosive minerals attack the anode instead of the heat exchanger — the same principle used in residential water heaters, just applied to a pool heater’s gas-fired exchanger. Whether your specific heater even has one to check is almost entirely a brand-and-model question, not something you can assume works the same way across every heater this site reviews.
Sacrificial anode options at a glance
| Brand | Part | Fits | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Raypak | ProTek Shield (017960F) | AVIA / AVIA HD w/ NiTek 206A-406A, 264A/404A | ~$45-$80 |
| Jandy | Sacrificial Anode Kit (R0965100) | JXi / JXiQ standard-copper models only (not ASME/CuNi) | ~$85-$120 |
| Pentair | No standalone anode part — cupro-nickel exchanger instead | MasterTemp HD / Max-E-Therm HD | N/A |
| Hayward | No anode — titanium exchanger standard | HeatPro heat-pump line | N/A |
| AquaCal | No anode — titanium exchanger standard | HeatWave / SuperQuiet / TropiCal | N/A |
1. Raypak ProTek Shield (017960F) — Standard on AVIA & AVIA HD w/ NiTek
Raypak ProTek Shield Corrosion Protection Module (017960F)
- Raypak builds this module into the inlet header on every AVIA and AVIA HD w/ NiTek gas heater, so it isn't an optional upgrade — it's already on your heater, sacrificing itself to protect the exchanger from galvanic corrosion whether you've ever looked at it or not.
- Installs by unscrewing the old module off the heater and threading in the new one, secured with a wing nut — no draining or gas-line work, per installer notes from retailers selling the part.
- The older plastic inlet/outlet header (discontinued part 006827F) has been superseded by header kit 017959F, which has the anode integrated into the header itself and extends about 2 inches further on the inlet side — existing plumbing may need minor modification if you're replacing that older header.
- Raypak's warranty terms specifically name a depleted, unreplaced anode as a coverage-voiding condition — see the full breakdown in our pool heater warranty guide.
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2. Jandy Sacrificial Anode Kit (R0965100) — Optional, Standard-Copper Models Only
Jandy Sacrificial Anode Kit (R0965100)
- Unlike Raypak's built-in module, this is an optional accessory that mounts into the unused third inlet port on a JXi/JXiQ heater — a genuine retrofit, not a factory-standard part.
- Jandy's own product listing is explicit that it will not work on JXi or JXiQ ASME (cupro-nickel) models — those heaters rely on the exchanger's corrosion-resistant metal instead, so the anode and the CuNi upgrade aren't a stackable combination on this lineup.
- Priced noticeably higher than Raypak's module across the retailers we checked, which is worth factoring in if corrosion protection — not just the specific brand — is the actual goal and your pool isn't locked into Jandy already.
- See our Jandy pool heater guide for which JXi/JXiQ sizes ship standard-copper versus which only come as the CuNi ASME version this kit can't retrofit.
Why Pentair, Hayward & AquaCal don’t sell one
The other three brands this site tracks solve the same corrosion problem a different way: by changing the exchanger metal itself instead of adding a sacrificial part that wears out. Pentair’s MasterTemp HD and Max-E-Therm HD swap in a cupro-nickel exchanger (part kits like 474065/77707-0244) built to resist the chloride attack a salt system or aggressive water chemistry causes, rather than pairing a standard copper exchanger with a replaceable anode. Hayward’s HeatPro line and AquaCal’s HeatWave/SuperQuiet/TropiCal heat pumps go further and use titanium standard across the board — titanium simply doesn’t corrode the way copper does in a salt or chemically unbalanced pool, so there’s no anode to check or replace in the first place. Our salt water pool heater guide breaks down which exchanger material each brand uses by model if corrosion resistance is the reason you’re reading this.
That split means “does my heater have an anode” isn’t a universal maintenance question the way checking an igniter or a pressure switch is — it only applies if you own a Raypak AVIA/AVIA HD gas heater (where it’s already there) or a Jandy JXi/JXiQ standard-copper model (where you can choose to add one).
The bottom line
If you own a Raypak AVIA or AVIA HD w/ NiTek gas heater, the ProTek Shield (017960F, about $45 to $80) is already protecting your exchanger and needs periodic visual inspection and replacement once eroded — skipping that isn’t just a corrosion risk, it can void your warranty outright. If you own a Jandy JXi/JXiQ standard-copper model, the R0965100 kit (roughly $85-$120) is a genuine optional upgrade, just not one that works on the CuNi ASME version. Everyone else — Pentair HD, Hayward HeatPro, AquaCal — is already covered by the exchanger metal itself, so there’s no anode part to shop for at all. If you’re not sure which camp your heater falls into, check the model number against our brand-specific guides before ordering any of these parts.